Puerto Rico: Cabo Rojo
This trip was a little complicated to plan. First, there is so much to see in Puerto Rico that it was difficult to narrow down what we wanted to do in our all too brief six days. Second, I was trying to plan something that would be fun for us, our friends, and their two teenage daughters. Between having so many options and wanting to make everyone happy, I spent a considerable amount of time researching activities and places. As I was trying to narrow down an itinerary, I stumbled across the bioluminescent bay in La Paraguera and I immediately knew we had to go there. Whatever else we planned, visiting one of the few biobays in the entire world had to be a part of it. With that certainty, our next location fell into place. From San Juan, Brandon and I picked up the rental car, which was an oh-so-cool minivan, and drove south to pick up our friends in the mountain town of Adjuntas, where they had been for a family wedding. The central mountains of Puerto Rico are stunning and definitely on my we-should-spend-more-time-there list for next time. However, this trip we continued south to Ponce and then on to the west side of the island, where we stayed two nights in Cabo Rojo.
Where We Stayed
For the next two nights of our trip, we stayed at a gorgeous home rental in a quiet neighborhood. The spacious townhouse was perfect for our group, with comfortable bedrooms, a fully stocked kitchen, and plenty of room for hanging out. The real highlight was the private pool, which felt even more connected to the house when we opened the living room into an indoor/outdoor space. There was also a fantastic rooftop seating area. All of this was within walking distance of a small beach. Had I not sprained my ankle walking to said beach, I would have had a perfect stay. As it was, the stairs presented an, um, interesting obstacle. I would recommend a stay here if Cabo Rojo is on your itinerary. This is a less touristy part of the island that gets busier in the summer when it is a popular area for locals to vacation. I enjoyed the slower pace, but it’s probably not the place to go if you’re looking for midweek nightlife in the middle of February.
What We Ate
First, let me refer you back to the previous sentence. The time of year combined with the fact that most things are closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays on this part of the island made finding restaurants a bit of a challenge the days we were there. In fact, we were almost late to the biobay tour because it took us so long to find an open spot for lunch and when we did, the meal took the usual 1.5+ hours that we came to expect on the island. Just something to keep in mind and potentially consider if you’re wanting to visit the southwest part of Puerto Rico. We eventually found Fogata del Mar Bar and Grill open near the gorgeous Playa El Combate, although we ended up taking our food to go.
If you’re in the area on a weekend or during the summer, definitely check out Boqueron for a multitude of dining options and a fun vibe. Although during our stay our options were limited, thankfully one of those options was Hoyo 19. This golf course restaurant near our home rental served excellent drinks and delicious local favorites. Although it was probably not a place we would have gone under different circumstances, I’m glad we did.
What We Did
There are so many incredible beaches on this part of the island, including Playa Sucia/La Playuela, which is often on lists of the most beautiful beaches in the world. We chose to spend a morning at Buye Beach, which is a popular local beach. I’m sure I made quite the site hobbling to my beach chair on crutches. On a Tuesday when most of the local shops and restaurants were closed, the beach was full of families enjoying a lovely sunny day.
The real highlight, though, was the Bio Bay and Snorkel Tour with Paradise Scuba and Snorkeling. This was, no exaggeration, one of the most spectacular things I have ever experienced. I’m fairly certain this will remain one of the top 5 things I will ever have the privilege to do. The afternoon began with a guided snorkeling tour along the reef. Despite the cloudy day, we still had a great experience. After the snorkel, we returned to the dock to enjoy homemade empanadas and the included beverages (a cold Medalla was an ideal post-snorkel drink to put in my salty face). Those who had only booked the bio bay tour joined us at this point and we headed to the largest of the mangrove islands that dot the ocean off of La Paraguera to watch the sunset. And then, and then. We spent the next 45 minutes swimming in a bioluminescent bay. Although Puerto Rico is home to three bio bays, this is the only one you can actually swim in. So that’s what we did. Honestly, swimming in the ocean at night should be terrifying, but I truly felt like if I died in that moment, it would be worth it. We floated in starlight and it was pure magic. Seriously, grown adults were universally giggling. When it was time to leave we, without exception, tarried in the water as long as we possibly could, soaking in every last second of wonder. If you ever have a chance to do this, don’t think twice. It will be a highlight of your life.
I loved our time in Cabo Rojo, minus the whole sprained ankle thing. Although this may not be the first place people have on their list of places to visit in Puerto Rico, maybe it should be. For our final two nights, we headed back to the north coast to explore El Yunque National Forest and relax at a beach resort.